Yet folks still lie on the beach, and some even think it's fun

Now, Cherating is truly a back of beyond beach town, and it was love at first sight. The main drag is sandy and there are rickety looking cottages (which, I would soon discover, can nonetheless withstand a heck of a thunder storm) everywhere, as well as outdoor restaurants just off the beach. And, because this is the 21st century, there was even an Internet cafe, which doubled as a library for those who wanted some light beach reading. I, however, didn't make use of that. I was here to get away from such things for a day or two.

It all reminded me of what I've heard the Florida Keys were like before they were "discovered." There are some unfortunate signs out there that Cherating is also being discovered: the travel guide mentions a luxury motel just up the road from where I stayed which features two restaurants, a disco, a pool (steps from the beach, for Pete's sake) and lots of other amenities I can't recall offhand - and says the motel "is possibly the future face of Cherating." I hope not, but...

For now, anyway, there's plenty for the more rustic traveller in all of us. I stayed at the Cherating Cottages, where I more than willingly shelled out an extra US$5 for a room with an air conditioner. The staff was friendly and accommodating and even willing to watch your luggage for you if you happened to have spent too much on the cab ride into town and had to go to the nearest ATM 12 kilometers up the road to get cash for the rent. Not that I would ever be that irresponsible, of course, but it's nice to know it could be done. And hey, if I ever were that careless, the trip to the next town might even involve a ride in the back of an ancient Mercedes taxi with right-hand drive, something some of us are willing to shell out a few bucks for anyhow. I'm just sayin'.

With all monetary issues squared away, a leisurely evening was had by all in Cherating. The cottages had a Western style bistro which only had pizzas on the menu for that night, but that was good enough for me. I got to chat here and there with a few other Western tourists, most of whom also hadn't been there before, and I finally made it down to the beach (a block away from the cottages) just at sundown for a quick walk. One more Tiger Beer at the nearest beachside bar and then I was off for an early night.

The next day - my only full day in Cherating - was the real fun, though. I was up bright and early and off to the beach, which was still mostly deserted when I got there and never got too crowded. Cherating is apparently sort of a budget getaway for those who come to Malaysia (and perhaps for the Malaysians as well); the beaches further up the east coast are reportedly nicer, but it's much more epensive to stay there and most of the beaches themselves are in the hands of private clubs.

Having not been further up the coast, all I can say is that it's a pretty good trade for those of us who stuck with Cherating. The water was warm, the view wasn't bad at all, and the whole place felt authentic in a way a private club almost certainly wouldn't. Like I said, there were other Westerners there, but there were also some locals and there was no tension between the two that I could see. Although this part of Malaysia has a big Moslem presence, it was no big deal for women to wear as little as they wanted to on the beach. In fact, it presented quite an interesting contrast to see locals in full head-to-toe regalia watching their children poke around in the tidal pools and Westerners in bikinis just a few meters away.

But of course, I wasn't there to people-watch. I was there for the water. I never quite saw the appeal of just lying on a beach for hours, even before I learned about skin cancer. No, it's always been about playing in the waves for me, and I spent hours doing that. Sitting in the shallow water just at the edge for a while, then wading out into the waves and letting them crash over me, then back again - it never got boring! I spent a lot of time thinking about things and just feeling good to be alive and where I was, and all my disappointments and regrets of the past couple of years. (Truth be told, there have only been a few of those, but they've been doozies.) And all that just seemed to wash away in the South China Sea, which not so long ago was little more to me than a memory of one page in one of those atlases I used to love so much as a kid. Once again I found myself wondering why I didn't give this life a try years ago and coming up with no good answer. I was - and am - just glad I finally did find this path. Some people never do, after all.

One day of this was enough for me, but apparently quite a few people come to Cherating and stay for quite a while. Not a bad choice at all. I highly recommend it to anyone who is in the area, and in case the Lonely Planet was right about the future of the town, I suggest you get there now!